I am often asked about my favourite fly-fishing destination. Without hesitation my answer is always the same: Bolivia. Nestled in one of the Americas’ most secluded corners, Bolivia boasts unique characteristics that set it apart. With over 60% of its population composed of pure Native American ancestry, it claims the largest indigenous population of any country in North or South America.
The Majesty of the Golden Dorado: Bolivia’s Prize Catch
Bolivia’s reputation in the fly-fishing world centers around the golden dorado, a fish known for its aggression, voracious appetite, and colossal size. These magnificent metallic gold specimens thrive in clear, remote rivers far from urban life. They embody the qualities of top-tier fisheries, with jumps like tarpon, eats like taimen, and the endurance of steelhead. The unique advantage is the ability to sight-fish for them in crystal-clear waters. It’s not an exaggeration to dub them the kings of sport-fish, as 19th-century angler John Hill did.
John Hill’s Influence: A South American Adventure Beckons
In 1923, John Hill, an English angler versed in the pursuit of Atlantic salmon, published a book recounting his South American adventures. His book drew intriguing parallels between the Atlantic salmon and the golden dorado, sparking my own journey to Bolivia. The catalyst for this expedition was Marcelo Perez, the owner of Untamed Angling, who had read Hill’s book and was determined to prove that large dorado could be caught on two-handed (Spey) rods, much like Atlantic salmon in the UK.
Sustainable Fly-Fishing: Untamed Angling’s Vision
Over a decade ago, Marcelo’s company partnered with Amazonian natives and local authorities to establish a sustainable and mutually beneficial fly-fishing program in Bolivia. Their goal was to preserve the pristine natural beauty of the region, often found in Indian Territories or National Parks. Achieving this required addressing logistical challenges, sharing benefits with local communities, navigating political issues, practicing strict catch and release with small groups of anglers in vast areas, and promoting the use of alternative energies.
Challenges and Joys of Two-Handed Rods in the Jungle
Taking on this adventure, I soon realized that my primary challenge would be casting large flies on a two-handed (Spey) rod. While some modern anglers claim that almost anything can be cast with condensed shooting heads, the size of the fly becomes an issue when it sticks to the water during the cast’s ‘anchor’ phase. Proper Spey-casting necessitates aligning the fly-line in what’s called the 180-degree principal, which becomes tedious or impossible with excessively long flies. Additionally, the humid jungle climate isn’t ideal for typical Spey lines, making single-hand rods and basic overhead casting a more practical choice.
My journey to Bolivia revealed not only the thrill of fly-fishing but also a host of intriguing aspects that often go unmentioned in articles and films.
Sabalo: The Dance of Predators and Prey
In Bolivia, golden dorado primarily prey on a small schooling fish that bears a striking resemblance to North American freshwater whitefish. These fish are scientifically known as Prochilodus nigricans but are commonly referred to as sabalo in Spanish. The locals rely on sabalo as a vital food source, hunting them with homemade bows and arrows. Dorado often corral these fish close to the shore, creating opportunities for exhilarating fly-fishing moments.
Candiru: Myth Versus Reality
Cautionary tales warned against urinating in the water due to parasitic freshwater catfish known as candiru or “vampire fish.” Legends described a slender, transparent eel-like creature irresistibly drawn to the scent of human urine. However, Marcelo dismissed these tales, assuring me that while candiru do inhabit the river, there have been no confirmed cases of them swimming through urine to invade human urethras. Nonetheless, these parasites pose a real threat to dorado, as they feed on their gills when the water turns murky.
Dorado: Sacred to Some, Predator to Others
Intriguingly, the Tsimane Indians in Bolivia refrain from consuming dorado, viewing them as fellow hunters and holding them sacred. The dorado, which means ‘golden’ in Spanish, can grow up to an impressive 75 pounds, with females typically outgrowing males. At around four years of age, mature females can lay up to 2 million eggs, embarking on journeys of approximately 250 miles to spawn. Dorado are opportunistic eaters, consuming a wide array of prey.
Mosquitos: Nature’s Persistent Pests
Bolivia’s mosquito population can be relentless, necessitating proper precautions and vaccinations. Diseases like Malaria, Dengue Fever, Yellow Fever, and the Zika virus are legitimate concerns. While I visited in August and miraculously avoided mosquito bites, I did encounter a small black fly with a disproportionately irritating bite.
Jaguars: Silent Specters of the Jungle
As our guides enjoyed lunch in the midday heat, I practiced archery. Jaguars, said to be among the largest big cats after lions and tigers, are formidable creatures. One of our crew members bore scars from a jaguar attack several years prior, during which the cat had snatched him from slumber.
Butterflies: A Lively Symphony of Colors
Bolivia’s jungles provided a surreal spectacle: an abundance of diverse butterflies flitting around us, each distinct from the last. A recent scientific expedition identified over 1,000 butterfly species in the region, surpassing North America’s 725 species.
Extreme Rain: Nature’s Unpredictability
During an upriver camping excursion, a light drizzle quickly escalated into a torrential downpour. Within hours, the river levels surged from knee-high to shoulder-high, prompting a hasty retreat to our dugout canoes.
Coca Leaves: The Ancient Stimulant
The Tsimane people’s cheeks bulged with large bunches of dried coca leaves, a major part of Bolivian culture. These lightweight leaves serve as an affordable stimulant, easily dried and packaged. Dating back to ancient civilizations, coca leaves have played a role in human life for millennia.
Pacu: A Culinary Delight from the Depths
The pacu, a relative of the piranha, is an omnivorous fish primarily feasting on nuts and berries. Often hailed as the “permit of freshwater,” pacu are renowned for their fierce fights. One of them lunged and ate the streamer, becoming a savory lunch.
Caiman: Unseen Predators Lurk
Dozens of caimans could be spotted basking on the Pluma River’s shores. These freshwater caimans primarily feed on fish and posed no danger to humans.
Freshwater Stingrays: Tread Carefully
One creature I approached with utmost caution was the freshwater stingray. These formidable animals can grow up to five feet in length and weigh up to 500 pounds, with tales of nightmarish encounters involving their venomous tails.
In summary, my Bolivian jungle adventure extended far beyond the realm of fishing. It immersed me in an untouched world, far removed from the comforts of civilization, where vulnerability and the thrill of being alive merged into a profound experience.
